I first planed and sanded the edges of the door assembly removing any rough areas making it good for sealing.  

It was then a matter of rebating to allow for the four hinges to be attached. Again the router was used here and once set up correctly 

 

As with door 1 I applied three coats of diluted PVA to seal the MDF. I little easier this time as drying time between coats was a lot less than before in the colder temperature. This meant I could easily get two coats on per day.

Having made a bit of an error (well fairly major actually ;-) ) with the first door when gluing, basically ending up with a fair curve along its length which I had to spend a lot of time correcting by jigging the whole thing and bending the other way :-( Needless to say I didn't want to make the same mistake again and chose a much better method when glueing - basically clamping the assembly rather than applying weight to it.

I used a couple of joist lengths which are very straight and clamped it all together against these to ensure a straight door. So once the panels were sanded and cleaned using white spirit I applied the PVA to the meeting surfaces and lined the edges up before clamping tight. I left this over night to dry.

Door 2 (outer) glued and jigged

I took delivery of 3 sheets of MDF and a couple of sheets of plasterboard on Tuesday to make a start on the second door (outer).  I had a lot of work to do around the garden this weekend so I set myself a meagre studio build target of getting the main 3 layers of the door cut to size ready for laminating. As before, I used 2 complete sheets for the outer surfaces and the off-cuts for the inner layer which makes maximum use of material and leaves me with another complete sheet for the sealing panel (see inner door.) 

In fact, before making a start on the MDF panels for the second door I cut the plasterboard insert (final layer) for the inner door. This was pretty straight forward though I had to be extremely careful as the plasterboard is quite easily damaged especially at the edges. I wanted make a clean job of it because I don't intend to fill or paint it. It was basically a rectangle with a small cut-out around the latch. 

OK, another job done and I might even try and get the panels sanded and prepared ready for laminating them at the weekend. 

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Plasterboard insert (inner door)

 

Just a brief entry today. I was hoping to get the MDF for the outer door delivered for this weekend (long bank holiday) but unfortunately I left it too late when calling Travis Perkins as all of their delivery slots were taken up before the weekend and the earliest would be on Tuesday :-(  Probably not a bad thing as there are plenty of other jobs to do as well as planning the door construction.

So the job for today: cover the ceiling cloud with the garden fabric. Wasn't sure how easy this would be but it actually worked out quite well. I needed a piece 275 x 200 cm to cover the entire area so I cut the 275cm length from the 200cm wide roll. I attached one side roughly in position using duct tape and then started stapling the other side using the staple gun. Once I had a few staples in place I removed the tape from the other side and replaced with staples. It was then just a matter of tensioning the fabric and stapling into the cloud framework.

All-in-all a pretty successful job and nice to actually cover the mineral wool to stop any fibres from falling. All that's needed for the room treatments now is to attach some strips to the framework to conceal the staples. For a later date.

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Another lull in proceedings in the last couple of weeks but I'm still here.

Before getting the outer door under way I have just to finish securing the frame and filling the surrounding gaps. I already had quite a few framing screws in place but I wanted to be sure that the frame was suitably strong to deal with the heavy door. I had already ordered another 10 of the 150 mm long fixings - good old ebay! 

First job though was to fill the remaining gaps around the frame between the brickwork. I was considering using some sort of flexible filler but in the end decided on using mortar to create a rigid join between the frame and the wall. Also, the gap varies between 5 - 12 mm so would require a lot of material and I have plenty of sand and cement.

It was a fairly fiddly task as I was filling from the inside a gap that is recessed into the frame by about 35 mm and only just the width of my larger spreading tool. However, after a bit of experimenting I developed a pretty good technique using the large tool to offer the mortar up to the gap and smaller tool above to push the mortar into the gap on both sides of the frame. The large tool also caught any mortar that fell down. It's one of those jobs not to rush, otherwise you end up with more mortar on your feet than where it's supposed to be. Another good job done though I do have some small gaps to fill at the top and re-mortar below the lintel on one side - for another day.

I left this for a couple of hours before pre-drilling and securing the remaining frame screws into place. In fact I used 19 of the 20 screws I had so I don't think the frame will move any time soon!

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